Kayfun 4 kyakkyawan atomizer ne, mai rikitarwa amma mai ƙarfi wanda ban taɓa gajiyawa da shi ba.
A priori, yana iya zama mai ban tsoro tare da duk waɗannan guda amma ba haka ba ne lokacin da muka ɗauki lokaci don gano shi. Koyaya, yana da mahimmanci a san ƙaramin aikin matsawa atomizers da kuma ƙwace Kayfun 4 gaba ɗaya don samun damar gano matsalolin da ka iya tasowa.
Za mu iya riga mun gano manyan sassa uku:
- Mai haɗa (A)
- Jikin atomizer (B)
- tanki (C) tare da babban hula (D)
Wannan atomizer yana da keɓancewar samun damar ragewa ko ƙara kwararar ruwa daga mahaɗa ta hanyar zobe (5) da ake kira “tsakiyar sashe”, wanda ta hanyar juya agogo baya, yana gyara tire (8) ko “sashe na sama” in connector A.
Tafi sama, wannan farantin yana danna kan ɓangaren ciki na kararrawa (20) (ɗakin evaporation), don haka raguwar ruwa yana raguwa har sai isowar ruwan ya rufe gaba daya.
Sanin cewa iska ta kasance a buɗe kuma gaba ɗaya mai zaman kanta daga wannan "makanikanci".
Bayan watanni uku na amfani mai zurfi, na ci karo da wasu kurakurai waɗanda zan yi ƙoƙarin gano.
Na farko ya kasance a matakin ƙasa.
Base mai ban tsoro:
Don rage wannan tasirin, kawai ƙara ƙarar dunƙule (9) wanda ke haɗa sassan uku, ƙananan (3), tsakiya (5) da babba (8). Yi hankali duk ɗaya don kada ku dage sosai saboda sashin tsakiya dole ne ya iya jujjuyawa cikin yardar kaina amma ba tare da wannan wasan ba wanda ke sa taron ya zama mai ban tsoro (a matakin zobe). Don haka yi matsakaicin ƙarfi.
Daidaita kwararar iska:
Ina ganin yana da ɗan taƙaitawa a farkon, amma da zarar an sami wannan saitin, babu buƙatar taɓa shi.
Don yin wannan, kawai ku hau atomizer ɗinku, cire screw ɗin lambar sadarwar ku (1) kula da kada ku rasa rufin (2).
Sa'an nan tare da ƙaramin lebur screwdriver za ku sami damar daidaita sigina na iska (13) wanda ke cikin yanki na iska na tsakiya (14).
Lokacin da kuka zazzage wannan dunƙule, an sanya shi ta hanyar da za a iya toshe ramukan yanki na tsakiya na iska, waɗanda ke cikin ɓangaren hexagonal na wannan. Bayan haka, kuna tsotse atomizer don bincika daidaiton tsotsar ku idan aka kwatanta da sha'awar ku. Da zarar kun sami ma'anar ku a cikin iska, kawai ku murƙushe ɓangaren (1) (tuntuɓi screw 510) tare da insulation.
The contact spring:
Wannan bazara yana kula da yin ƙazanta cikin sauƙi kuma yana haifar da asarar lamba. Ta hanyar ɗan sarrafa zobe (5), tsaftacewa ko shimfiɗa wannan bazara, lambar sadarwa ta dawo.
Bugu da ƙari, tare da wasu kwalaye, kayan kayan bazara sun zama marasa dacewa (rashin daidaituwa na ƙimar taro ko rashin haɗin gwiwa, da dai sauransu). Idan kun lura da irin wannan matsalar, dole ne ku canza ta ta hanyar maye gurbinta da ruwan marmaro mai launin zinari da aka sayar daban.
Don cika tanki:
Daga cikin kararrawa:
Domin kwance kararrawa (26) tare da tankin sa, farantin (17) (tushe na atomizer) dole ne ya kasance daidai daidai da ɓangaren babba na mahaɗin (8) (saboda haka zoben (5) an murɗe shi zuwa lokacin. ). A cikin wannan saitin, ruwa yana gudana, wanda shine dalilin da ya sa dole ne ka sanya atomizer a kife don cire shi. Sa'an nan kawai juya gindin kararrawa zuwa gefe.
"Ƙananan wasan" na screwing / unscrewing a wannan matakin ba koyaushe a bayyane yake a farkon lokaci ba, amma ta hanyar shigar da ƙaramin screwdriver a cikin rami mai gudana na tsakiya, za ku sami sauƙi mai sauƙi, ba tare da tilasta ba kuma ba tare da amfani da shi ba. safar hannu na latex.
Da zarar tanki ya cika daga cikin kararrawa, sai ku canza shi. Koyaushe a juye, yanke isowar e-ruwa kafin ka juye atomizer ɗinka ta hanyar kwance zoben (5) har sai kun ji “tsayawa”. Zuwan ruwan da aka rufe, zaku iya mayar da atomizer, jira komai don daidaitawa (2 seconds) kuma a ƙarshe buɗe isowar ruwan 'ya'yan itace ta hanyar murɗa zobe. Muna ganin kumfa suna tashi sama a cikin tanki kuma babu wani ɗigo ya bayyana. Bayan 'yan buri, ana yin priming.
Ta saman hula:
Da farko, kun yanke isowar e-ruwa ta hanyar kwance zoben (5). Sai ki bude saman hular, ki cika, sannan ki rufe atomizer sannan a karshe za ki iya bude isowar ruwan ta hanyar murza zobe da baya (a gefen agogo).
Ruwan e-liquid:
Wannan yana faruwa lokacin da ba a mutunta tsarin cikawa.
Na kuma sami ɗigogi saboda yawancin magudin sassan mahaɗin duniya. Daidaitaccen motsi na iska (13) a hankali ya zame daga tsakiyar yanki (14). Ta hanyar wuce gona da iri, wannan ya hana tushe (17) da ke cikin jikin atomizer, daga latsa gaba ɗaya a kan sashin sama (8) na mahaɗin. Wannan ya haifar da leaks.
Subohm:
An tsara wannan atomizer don yin aiki tare da ƙarancin juriya (a ƙasa 1 ohm) amma don haka dole ne ku sayi kayan da suka dace (ba a haɗa su da atomizer ba), saboda ainihin rufin atomizer baya tallafawa sosai. ƙananan dabi'u (sabili da haka sakamakon dumama) kuma yana kula da lalata (duba narke). Na biya shi:
Na sayi kit ɗin subohm kuma ga mamakina, yanki na tsakiya na iska (14) yayi kama da wanda aka kawo tare da atomizer. To a'a! Tunda na kasa saka screw na daidaitawa a cikinsa saboda babu zare a ciki. A gefe guda, rufin yana da alama ya fi ƙarfin da ya gabata.
Bugu da ƙari, game da bazara, yana da kyau cewa ba a ba da wannan insulator tare da atomizer ba saboda ba ainihin zaɓuɓɓuka ba ne amma larura don samun damar yin aiki akai-akai a cikin subohm (wanda aka tsara shi a asali) kuma akan kowane nau'in na zamani.
Mu ci gaba zuwa gyare-gyare:
Mai tsayayya guda ɗaya a cikin Kanthal 0.3, akan goyan bayan diamita na 3mm, tare da juyi takwas don jimlar 1.6 Ω
Juriya sau biyu a cikin Kanthal 0.3, akan goyan bayan diamita na 1.8mm, tare da juyawa bakwai kowanne don jimlar 0.6 Ω
Ka tuna a sake haɗa masu tsayayya da kyau don guje wa haɗarin ɗan gajeren kewayawa saboda sararin samaniya yana da iyaka.
Har ila yau, ku tuna yanke wuce haddi na kanthal don kada ya fito daga screws kuma kada ya taɓa gefuna na zoben riƙewa.
