The material to vaper

Starting in the reconstructible, is not easy, we must become familiar with all the material that is often unknown to us, not to mention the specific terms used that seem too complex and sometimes discourage the temptation to learn . That's why I wanted to introduce most of the essential elements that contribute effectively to smoking cessation.

Here are the different points discussed:

>> A - The set-up

1 - the tubular Mod or the box
- 1.a - The electronic tubular mod
- 1.b - The mechanical tubular mod
- 1.c - The electronic box
- 1.d - The mechanical box
- 1.e - The bottom feeder box (electro or meca)

2 - The atomizer
- 2.a - The dripper with or without tank (RDA)
- 2.b - The vacuum atomizer (with tank) or RBA / RTA
- 2.c - The Genesis type atomizer (with tank)

>> B - Different existing materials constituting the assemblies

>> C - Tools required

A- The Set-up

A set-up is all the different elements that, once combined, allow you to vape.

Identify the various elements that make up a set-up

1 - The tubular mod or the box:

Generally, it is an element made up of a "switch" or firing button, a tube or a box (to contain the battery (s) as well as the possible regulation chipset) and a connection used to fix the atomizer.

It will be chosen according to its knowledge, its ergonomics, its tastes, its ease of use.

There are several types of mod: the electronic mod, the mechanical mod, the electronic box and the mechanical box.

a- The Electronic tubular mod:

It is a tube made up of several parts, with or without extensions, making it possible to increase or decrease its size, depending on the battery (s) used with the mod.

In one of these parts is inserted an electronic module, generally where the switch is located, which has the shape of a push button. A part equipped with an 510 connection (this is a standard format) on which the atomizer is screwed is located at the top of the assembly: this is the top cap.

The advantages of the electronic mod:

For a beginner, it is not having to worry about a possible risk of overheating or short circuit, because it is the electronics that manages and cuts the power supply in this case.

The module also gives the value of the resistance achieved (ohmmeter function) if a screen is inserted into the tube, the voltage and / or the power that one chooses according to his needs. Others have LED coding for the chosen power. And some more advanced models offer even more features.

No need to use protected accumulators, the protections are integrated.

To begin and become familiar with the reconstructible, it is best not to disperse to better appreciate the different possibilities.

The disadvantage of the tubular electronic mod:

This is its size: it is longer than a mechanical mod because it requires a minimum of space for the module (chipset) which is inserted in it.

b- the mechanical mod:

It is a tube consisting of several parts, with or without extensions, depending on the size of the accumulator (s) used with the mod. Two other elements associated with this tube constitute the mod.

These are: the top-cap on which the atomizer is screwed and which is at the top of the mod and the (mechanical) switch that is actuated to supply the resistance of the atomizer via the accumulator. The switch can be at the bottom of the mod (we speak of "switch to the bottom") or elsewhere along the length of the mod (pinky switch).

The advantages of the mechanical mod:

It is to obtain a maximum power according to the chosen accumulator and to be able to obtain a size (in length) lower than that of an electronic mod.

The disadvantages of the mechanical mod:

It is impossible to vary the voltage or the power which only depends on the capacity of the battery (s) as well as the resistance of your assembly. There is no protection to compensate for the risk of short circuit or overheating. However, there are protective elements that fit into the tube to prevent these risks. Sometimes, these elements also allow a variation of the tension (one speaks then of “kicks”) but this imposes to add an extension to be screwed to the tube (which increases its size a little).

Without kick, it is better to use in your mod, a protected battery taking care to check the diameter of it, because all are not compatible since they are wider (in diameter) than a battery without protection. Also check that the protection is mentioned on the accumulator.

You will also not be able to gauge the value of resistance, voltage or wattage without using other specific tools.

c - The electronic box:

It has the same functional characteristics as the electronic mod. Only the shape of the object is different since it is more imposing with many forms other than cylindrical. It usually has a more powerful, larger and more powerful electronic module

d - The mechanical box:

It has the same characteristics as the mechanical mod and is therefore not equipped with an electronic module. Only the shape of the object is different. The switch as well as the top cap being an integral part of the whole, it is not possible to insert a kick to guard against risks. Therefore, it is imperative to use protected accumulators or accumulators whose internal chemistry is more permissive with demanding operation. (IMR)

e - The Bootom feeder box (BF):

It can be mechanical or electronic, its particularity lies in the fact that it is equipped with a bottle and a pipe which is connected to the pine. This pin is drilled to feed the atomizer that is associated with the box, also having a pin pierced for the exchange of fluid with the atomizer.

The main function of the bottom feeder makes it necessary an atomizer also possessing a pierced pin for the exchange of the fluid by pumping on the flexible bottle in order to feed the wick in liquid by a simple pressure on the bottle, without the need of an atomizer with tank.

2 - The atomizer:

For the reconstructable, there are mainly three types of atomizers on which we can make different assemblies: There is the Dripper (RDA), it is an atomizer without tank, then the vacuum atomizer, with tank around or at- top of the plate where we will perform the assembly and finally an atomizer of the "Genesis" type with tank under the plate (or RDTA) on which we carry out various assemblies.

There are also clearomizers with tank. These are atomizers with proprietary resistors that are already ready for use

a - The Dripper, with or without tank (RDA):

A Dripper is a simple atomizer with a tray on which are several pads. At least two pads are necessary to install a resistor, one is dedicated to the positive pole and the other to the negative pole of the accumulator. When they are connected by the resistance, the electricity circulates and, being trapped in the turns of this one, it heats the material.

The positive pole is distinguished from the negative because it is isolated from the plate by means of an insulating material at its base.

After building its resistance, it is fixed on the studs without worrying about the poles. Then, we insert a wick that will rest on each side on the board.

Some Drippers have a "tank" (cavity) which allows you to put a little more liquid than in the others. So each end of the wick will go to the bottom of the tank to allow the liquid to rise to the resistance by suction and capillary action, then to evaporate thanks to the resistance which heats up and evaporates the liquid.

In general, the Dripper without reservoir, needs to be replenished with liquid permanently by lifting the "cover" (in principle simply nested) called the top cap of the atomizer. For a better vape (rendering of flavors and aeration) it is important to align the airholes (holes) of the top cap, at the same level as the resistance.

The qualities of the Dripper:

Simple to make, no liquid leaks possible, no "gurgling", a larger air circulation chamber for a rendering of flavors often better when they are intended for, thanks to a small to medium airflow. Atomizers with a very large airflow rather offer a large production of vapor, sometimes at the expense of flavors. Drippers are practical for changing the wick and therefore using another e-liquid and testing different aromas by switching from one to another very easily.

The downside of the dripper:

No or very little autonomy of e-liquid, it is imperative to keep a bottle handy to feed the wick permanently or to use a bottom-feeder compatible dripper and a suitable mod to feed it with liquid.

b - The vacuum atomizer (with tank) or RBA or RTA:

A vacuum atomiser comes in two main parts. A lower part, called "evaporation chamber" on which we will find at least two pads for each pole in order to install a resistance. Then we conscientiously insert a wick. Depending on the atomizers, the ends of the wick must be placed where the manufacturer recommends it, on the plate, in the channels or sometimes even in front of the holes intended for the passage of the liquid.

In general, these ends are found on the platform of the plateau just where the e-liquid must go through the channels or holes dedicated for this purpose.

This first part is isolated from the second by a bell so as not to drown the assembly and thus create a chamber where equilibrium air pressure (in part1) and a liquid pressure (in part2). This is what constitutes depression.

The second part is the "tank" or reservoir, its role is to reserve a quantity of e-liquid which will feed the assembly at each suction to have autonomy for several hours without replenishing the juice. This is the upper part of the atomizer. This part can also be located around the evaporation chamber.

The qualities of the vacuum atomizer:

It is the simplicity of the assembly, the autonomy which obviously differs according to the capacity of the juice reserve and a quality of flavor as well as a perfectly correct vapor. The low placement of the resistance called "bottom-coil" favors warm or cold temperatures.

The disadvantages of the vacuum atomizer:

Learning and perseverance are necessary to tame the atomizer in order to identify the risks of "gurgling" or possible leaks (a surplus of liquid in part 1) but also the risks of a dry hit, ie. that is to say a burnt taste which occurs by lack of e-liquid on the wick, often caused by a blockage or compression of the latter, or by a hot spot (it is a part of the resistive wire that heats too much compared to the rest) often located at the ends of the resistance.

c - The Génésis type atomizer (with reservoir or RDTA):

With a pure Genesis assembly, it is an atomizer which is presented in three parts and without a bell, since the plate and therefore the assembly is located on the top of the atomizer. We therefore speak of a "top coil" atomizer. There are at least two different fixings for each end of the resistance, which quite often is mounted vertically. There is also a minimum of two holes on this plate. One is designed to insert either Mesh (metal mesh that we will have previously oxidized, rolled and inserted in the center of the turns of our resistance) or a steel cable surrounded by silica sheath around which we wind the resistive wire , either fiber, cotton, cellulose or silica surrounded by a resistance. The other hole will fill the reservoir with liquid, which is under the plate, and in which the wick is bathed. This is the second part.

With a classic cotton, the resistance is mounted horizontally as for the U-Coils for example or even atos top coils like the Change.

The third part of this Genesis atomizer, as for the Dripper, is the top cap which encloses the assembly and like the dripper, this top cap is equipped with holes (adjustable in diameter in general) which allow aeration of the assembly for to raise the flavors of the juices. So, these airholes will be positioned in front of the resistance (s).

The qualities of the Genesis atomizer:

A good autonomy of the set up in e-liquid thanks to the capacity of the tank and a rendering of the flavors really very good with a rather dense and hot vapor.

The disadvantages of the Génésis atomizer:

Learning and perseverance are necessary to tame the atomizer in order to identify the risks of "gurgling", possible leaks or potential dry hits.

The assembly requires more handling than other atomizers (mesh rolling, cable assembly, choice of a very capillary fiber) and a correct dimension of the "cigar" that constitutes the rolled mesh.

Note that for these three atomizers, some make a steam more or less warm, hot or cold.

Aeration plays an important role on the temperature of the vape and its flavor.

In conclusion :

Choosing the Set-up is not an easy thing when you are a recent vapoteur in the reconstructable or little familiar with these different factors: the material, the accumulators, the different powers corresponding to your own vape, the execution of assembly, the choice of an airy or tight vape, the autonomy of the battery and the desired flavors.

For the mod, we will favor a mod or an electronic box that will manage with you your needs by minimizing the risks (overheating, limit of the value of the resistance, voltage power ...)

For the atomizer, this choice will be made according to the simplicity of execution of the assembly. Performing only one resistance is much easier and does not detract from the potency, flavor or hit. To keep a certain autonomy, it is obvious that a vacuum atomizer remains the best compromise in the set-up of a beginner in the rebuildable. Otherwise you have the proprietary resistors that you just have to screw on the base of the atomizer by choosing beforehand the material of the resistive included and its resistive value. We then speak, for this type of atomizer, of Clearomizer.

B- Different existing materials constituting the assemblies:

The resistive wire:

There are different types of resistive, the most common are Kanthal, stainless steel or SS316L, Nichrome (Nicr80) and Nickel (Ni200). Of course, titanium and other alloys are also used, but are less widespread. Each type of wire has its own advantages and disadvantages. We can start with kanthal which is the most common thread for the ease of obtaining an average resistance which will be appropriate in most cases. Stainless steel will be more flexible, also less durable, but will allow it to achieve lower strengths. And so on…

Highlights :

In the reconstructable, it is imperative to put a capillary to convey the liquid which passes from the tank to the resistance via this intermediary. There are a lot of different brands of cotton that are more or less interesting, with different aspects. Wicks easy to place, more or less absorbent cottons, some are packed, brushed or ventilated, others natural or treated ... in short, among all these choices, you have a very wide range of proposals, so I have compiled some examples of brands or type:

Organic Cotton, Cotton Carded, Cotton Bacon, Master Pro-Coil, Kendo Gold, Kendo Gold, Beast, Native Wicks, VCC, Vap Lab, Nakamichi, Texas Tuff, Quickwick, Juicy Wix, Cloud Kicker Cotton, Doodle Wick, Ninja Wick, ...

The steel cable:

The cable is mainly used with atomizers intended for genesis assemblies. They are combined with a silica sheath or else a natural textile sheath (Ekowool) on which the resistance is placed. The diameters or the number of steel strands are different and are chosen according to the opening offered by the atomizer plate and the necessary capillarity.

Sheath :

The sheath is generally made of silica. This material has a high tolerance to heat and does not burn. It is associated with the cable for Genesis montages. In order to maintain proper safety of use, it is still useful to change it frequently in order to avoid absorbing silica fibers which, accumulating in the airways, can cause calcifications.

The mesh:

Mesh is a stainless steel canvas, there are several frames that are different by a more or less thick mesh that is chosen according to the resistive wire used for resistance. The Mesh is practiced on atomizers accepting the Genesis fixtures, it is a vape quite similar to the cable and the work of execution is also longer and more delicate than a classic assembly of cotton.

The accumulator:

To date, the most used batteries for vaping are IMR batteries. They all have a median voltage of 3.7V but operate over a range of values between 4.2V for a full charge and 3.2V for the low voltage limit which will require recharging. The amperage of the battery is important in the vape since some electronic boxes require a minimum amperage for the battery, which is specified in the instructions. It should be noted, however, that the low voltage limit for IMR batteries can go lower than so-called Lithium Ion batteries (around 2.9V).

The size of the batteries, depending on your mod, may be different. Several sizes are possible, the most common are the 18650 batteries (18 for 18mm diameter and 65 for 65mm length and 0 for the round shape), otherwise you also have the 18350, 18500, 26650 and other intermediate format less conventional.

For the vape mecha, there are protected batteries including internal security but so the diameter is often a little wider than the 18mm expected. Others have a length slightly greater than 6.5cm expected due to a protruding nipple (about 2mm) on the positive pole.

Constantly looking for power or autonomy, some mods offer variations by associating the batteries in parallel, in series, by two, by three or even by four. To either increase the tension or increase the intensity but the interest is always focused on the quest for power or autonomy.