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IN SHORT:
What is the material for Vaper?
What is the material for Vaper?

What is the material for Vaper?

The material to vaper

Starting in the reconstructible, is not easy, we must become familiar with all the material that is often unknown to us, not to mention the specific terms used that seem too complex and sometimes discourage the temptation to learn . That's why I wanted to introduce most of the essential elements that contribute effectively to smoking cessation.

Here are the different points:
>> A - The set-up
  • 1 - the tubular mod or the box
    • 1.a - The electronic tubular mod
    • 1.b - The mechanical tubular mod
    • 1.c - The electronic box
    • 1.d - The mechanical box
    • 1.e - The box bottom feeder (electro or meca)
  • 2 - The atomizer
    • 2.a - The dripper with or without tank (RDA)
    • 2.b - Vacuum atomizer (with tank) or RBA / RTA
    • 2.c - The atomizer of the Genesis type (with tank)
>> B - Different existing materials constituting montages
>> C - Tools needed

A- The Set-up

A set-up is all the different elements that, once combined, allow you to vape.

Identify the various elements that make up a set-up

  • 1 - The tubular mod or the box:

Generally, it is an element consisting of a "switch" or button firing, a tube or a box (to contain the battery or batteries and the possible chipset regulation) and a connection used to fix the atomizer.

It will be chosen according to its knowledge, its ergonomics, its tastes, its ease of use.

There are several types of mod: the electronic mod, the mechanical mod, the electronic box and the mechanical box.

  1. a- The tubular mod Electronic:

It is a tube consisting of several parts, with or without extensions, to increase or decrease its size, depending on the battery or batteries used with the mod.

In one of these parts is inserted an electronic module, usually where the switch is located in the form of a push button. Part equipped with an 510 connection (it is a standard format) on which we screw the atomizer is at the top of the set: it is the top cap.

The advantages of the electronic mod:

For a beginner, it is not having to worry about a possible risk of overheating or short circuit, because it is the electronics that manages and cuts the power supply in this case.

The module also gives the value of the resistance achieved (ohmmeter function) if a screen is inserted into the tube, the voltage and / or the power that one chooses according to his needs. Others have LED coding for the chosen power. And some more advanced models offer even more features.

No need to use protected accumulators, the protections are integrated.

To begin and become familiar with the reconstructible, it is best not to disperse to better appreciate the different possibilities.

The disadvantage of the tubular electronic mod:

This is its size: it is longer than a mechanical mod because it requires a minimum of space for the module (chipset) that is inserted in it.

  1. b- the mechanical mod:

It is a tube consisting of several parts, with or without extensions, depending on the size of the accumulator (s) used with the mod. Two other elements associated with this tube constitute the mod.

These are: the top-cap on which the atomizer is screwed and which is at the top of the mod and the switch (mechanical) that is operated to supply the resistance of the atomizer via the accumulator. The switch can be at the bottom of the mod (we speak of "switch in the ass") or elsewhere on the length of the mod (pinky switch).

The advantages of the mechanical mod:

It is to obtain a maximum power according to the chosen accumulator and to be able to obtain a size (in length) lower than that of an electronic mod.

The disadvantages of the mechanical mod:

It is impossible to vary the voltage or power that depend only on the capacity of the battery (s) and the resistance of your assembly. There is no protection against the risk of short circuit or overheating. However, there are protective elements that fit into the tube to prevent these risks. Sometimes, these elements also allow a variation of the tension (one speaks about "kicks") but it imposes to add an extension to screw to the tube (which increases a little its size).

Without kick, it is better to use in your mod, a protected battery taking care to check the diameter of it, because all are not compatible since they are wider (in diameter) than a battery without protection. Also check that the protection is mentioned on the accumulator.

You will not be able to gauge the value of resistance, voltage or power without using other specific tools.

  1. c - The electronic box:

It has the same functional characteristics as the electronic mod. Only the shape of the object is different since it is more imposing with many forms other than cylindrical. It usually has a more powerful, larger and more powerful electronic module

  1. d - The mechanical box:

It has the same characteristics as the mechanical mod and is therefore not equipped with an electronic module. Only the shape of the object is different. The switch and the top cap are an integral part of the whole, it is not possible to insert a kick to guard against risks. Therefore, it is imperative to use protected accumulators or accumulators whose internal chemistry is more permissive with a demanding operation. (IMR)

  1. e - The box Bootom feeder (BF):

It can be mechanical or electronic, its particularity lies in the fact that it is equipped with a bottle and a pipe which is connected to the pine. This pin is drilled to feed the atomizer that is associated with the box, also having a pin pierced for the exchange of fluid with the atomizer.

The main function of the bottom feeder makes it necessary an atomizer also possessing a pierced pin for the exchange of the fluid by pumping on the flexible bottle in order to feed the wick in liquid by a simple pressure on the bottle, without the need of an atomizer with tank.

  • 2 - The atomizer:

For the rebuildable, there are mainly three types of atomizers on which one can realize different assemblies: There is the Dripper (RDA), it is a tankless atomizer, then the vacuum atomizer, with reservoir around or above the plate or we will realize the assembly and finally a type of atomizer "Genesis" with tank under the plate (or RDTA) on which one carries out different assemblies.

There are also clearomizers with tank. These are atomizers with proprietary resistors that are already ready for use

  1. a - The Dripper, with or without tank (RDA):

A Dripper is a simple atomizer with a tray on which there are several pads. At least two studs are needed to install a resistor, one is dedicated to the positive pole and the other to the negative pole of the battery. When they are connected by the resistance, the electricity circulates and, being trapped in the turns of the latter, it causes the material to heat up.

The positive pole is distinguished from the negative because it is isolated from the plate by means of an insulating material at its base.

After building its resistance, it is fixed on the studs without worrying about the poles. Then, we insert a wick that will rest on each side on the board.

Some Drippers have a "tank" (cavity) that allows to put a little more liquid than in others. So each bit of wick will go to the bottom of the tank to allow the liquid to go up to the resistance by suction and capillarity, then evaporate through the resistance that heats and evaporates the liquid.

In general, the Dripper without tank, requires to be refueled in a permanent way by lifting the "hood" (basically simply nested) called top cap of the atomizer. For a better vape (flavor rendering and aeration) it is important to align the airholes (holes) of the top cap, at the same level as the resistance.

The qualities of the Dripper:

Simple realization, no liquid leaks possible, no "glouglous", a larger air circulation chamber for rendering flavors often better when they are planned for, thanks to a small airflow medium. Atomizers with a very large airflow rather propose a large production of steam, sometimes at the expense of the flavors. Drippers are useful for changing the wick and so use another e-liquid and test different flavors by switching from one to the other very easily.

The disadvantage of the dripper:

No or very little e-liquid autonomy, it is imperative to keep a bottle at hand to feed the wick permanently or use a bottom-feeder compatible dripper and a suitable mod to feed it with liquid.

  1. b - Vacuum atomizer (with tank) or RBA or RTA:

A vacuum atomizer has two main parts. A lower part, called "evaporation chamber" on which we will find at least two pads for each of the poles to install a resistance. Then we will carefully insert a wick. Depending on the atomizers, the ends of the wick should be placed where the manufacturer recommends it, on the tray, in the channels or sometimes even in the holes for the passage of liquid.

In general, these ends are found on the platform of the plateau just where the e-liquid must go through the channels or holes dedicated for this purpose.

This first part is isolated from the second by a bell so as not to drown the assembly and thus create a chamber where equilibrium air pressure (in part1) and a liquid pressure (in part2). This is what constitutes depression.

The second part is the "tank" or tank, its role is to reserve a quantity of e-liquid that will feed the assembly at each aspiration to have autonomy for several hours without refilling juice. This is the top part of the atomizer. This part can also be located around the evaporation chamber.

The qualities of the vacuum atomizer:

It is the simplicity of realization of the assembly, the autonomy which obviously differs according to the capacity of the reserve of juice and a quality of flavor as well as a steam quite correct. The low placement of the resistance called "bottom-coil" favors warm or cold temperatures.

The disadvantages of the vacuum atomizer:

Learning and perseverance are necessary to tame the atomizer to identify the risks of "glouglou" or possible leaks (a surplus of liquid in the 1 part) but also the risk of dry hit, that is to say that is to say a taste of burning that occurs due to lack of e-liquid on the wick, often caused by a blockage or compression thereof, or by a hot spot (it is a part of the resistive wire that heats too much compared to the rest) often located at the ends of the resistance.

  1. c - Atomizer type Genesis (with tank or RDTA):

With a pure Genesis mount, it is an atomizer that comes in three parts and no bell, since the plateau and therefore the assembly is located on the top of the atomizer. So we speak of atomizer "top coil". There are at least two different fixings for each end of the resistance, which is often mounted vertically. There are also two holes on this board. One is designed to insert either Mesh (wire mesh that has been previously oxidized, rolled and inserted in the center of the turns of our resistance) or a steel cable surrounded by silica sheath around which is wound resistive wire or fiber, cotton, cellulose or silica surrounded by resistance. The other hole will fill the tank with liquid, which is under the tray, and in which the wick is bathed. This is the second part.

With a classic cotton, the resistance is mounted horizontally as for the U-Coils for example or even atos top coils like the Change.

The third part of this Genesis atomizer, as for the Dripper, is the top cap which encloses the assembly and like the dripper, this top cap is equipped with holes (adjustable in diameter in general) which allow aeration of the assembly for to raise the flavors of the juices. So, these airholes will be positioned in front of the resistance (s).

The qualities of the Genesis Atomizer:

A good autonomy of the set up in e-liquid thanks to the capacity of the tank and a rendering of the flavors really very good with a rather dense and hot vapor.

The disadvantages of the Génésis atomizer:

Learning and perseverance are necessary to tame the atomizer to identify the risks of "glouglou", possible leaks or potential dry hits.

The assembly requires more handling than other atomizers (rolling the mesh, cable assembly, choice of a very hairy fiber) and a fair dimension of the "cigar" that is the Mesh rolled.

Note that for these three atomizers, some make a steam more or less warm, hot or cold.

Aeration plays an important role on the temperature of the vape and its flavor.

In conclusion:

Choosing the Set-up is not an easy thing when you are a recent vaper in the reconstructible or not very familiar with these different factors: the equipment, the accumulators, the different powers corresponding to its own vape, the execution of mounting, the choice of an airy or tight vape, the autonomy of the battery and the desired flavors.

For the mod, we will favor a mod or an electronic box that will manage with you your needs by minimizing the risks (overheating, limit of the value of the resistance, voltage power ...)

For the atomizer, this choice will be made according to the simplicity of execution of the assembly. Achieving only one resistance is much easier and does not detract from power, flavor or hit. To keep some autonomy it is obvious that a vacuum atomizer remains the best compromise in the set-up of a beginner in the rebuildable. Otherwise you have the proprietary resistors that only remains to screw on the basis of the atomizer by choosing in advance the material of the resistive included and its resistive value. This type of atomizer is then called a Clearomizer.

B- Different existing materials constituting the assemblies:

  • Resistive wire:

There are different types of resistive, the most common are Kanthal, stainless steel or SS316L, Nichrome (Nicr80) and Nickel (Ni200). Of course, titanium and other alloys are also used, but are less generalized. Each type of thread has its own advantages and disadvantages. We can start with kanthal which is the most used wire for the ease to obtain a medium resistance that will be suitable in most cases. Stainless steel will be more flexible, less durable as well but will allow it to reach lower strengths. And so on…

  • Highlights :

In the reconstructible, it is imperative to put a capillary to convey the liquid that passes from the tank to the resistance through this intermediary. There are a lot of different brand "cotton" different or different, with different aspects. Wicks easy to place, cottons more or less absorbent, some are packed, brushed or ventilated, other natural or treated ... short of all these choices, you have a wide range of proposals, so I've compiled some examples of marks or type:

Organic Cotton, Cotton Carded, Cotton Bacon, Master Pro-Coil, Kendo Gold, Kendo Gold, Beast, Native Wicks, VCC, Vap Lab, Nakamichi, Texas Tuff, Quickwick, Juicy Wix, Cloud Kicker Cotton, Doodle Wick, Ninja Wick, ...

  • The steel cable:

The cable is mainly used with atomizers intended for genesis mounts. They are associated with a silica sheath or a natural textile sheath (Ekowool) on which the resistance is placed. The diameters or the numbers of steel strands are different and are chosen according to the opening proposed by the plate of the atomizer and the necessary capillarity.

  • Sheath :

The sheath is generally made of silica. This material has a high tolerance to heat and does not burn. It is associated with cable for Genesis mounts. In order to maintain a safe use, it is still useful to change it frequently to avoid absorbing silica fibers which, accumulating in the airways, can cause calcification.

  • The mesh:

Mesh is a stainless steel canvas, there are several frames that are different by a more or less thick mesh that is chosen according to the resistive wire used for resistance. The Mesh is practiced on atomizers accepting the Genesis fixtures, it is a vape quite similar to the cable and the work of execution is also longer and more delicate than a classic assembly of cotton.

  • The accumulator:

To date, the batteries most used for the vape, are the IMR batteries. They all have a median voltage of 3.7V but operate over a range of values ​​between 4.2V for a full load and 3.2V for the low voltage limit which will require recharging. The amperage of the battery is important in the vape since some electronic boxes require a minimum amperage for the battery, which is specified in the instructions. It should be noted, however, that the low voltage limit for IMR batteries can go lower than Lithium Ion batteries (about 2.9V).

The size of the batteries, depending on your mod, may be different. Several sizes are possible, the most common are the 18650 batteries (18 for 18mm diameter and 65 for 65mm length and 0 for the round shape), otherwise you also have the 18350, 18500, 26650 and other intermediate format less conventional.

For the vape mecha, there are protected batteries including internal security but so the diameter is often a little wider than the 18mm expected. Others have a length slightly greater than 6.5cm expected due to a protruding nipple (about 2mm) on the positive pole.

Constantly looking for power or autonomy, some mods offer variations by associating the batteries in parallel, in series, by two, by three or even by four. To either increase the tension or increase the intensity but the interest is always focused on the quest for power or autonomy.

C- Necessary tools:

  • Coil holder to fix the diameter

  • blowpipe

  • Ceramic pliers

  • Cutting pliers for the wire (or nail clipper)

  • Screwdriver
  • Cotton chisel
  • ohmmeter
  • Battery charger
  • kick

I now hope that all the elements and materials used for the vape will now be acquired to help you in your future choices.

Sylvie.I

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